Posts Tagged ‘Small Dog Behavior’

Help! My Small Dog is Out of Control and My Boyfriend is Not Helping

Thursday, November 12th, 2009

lazy

The following was sent in from a reader in response to my article on Small Dog Syndrome. You can find the full comment at the bottom of the article. Here’s a link to the original article.

“MY DOG KNOWS I DONT LIKE HIM ON THE BED, BUT HE ALSO KNOWS THAT MY BF [boyfriend] THINKS THAT EVERYTHING HE DOES IS CUTE SO HE WONT JUMP ON THE BED WHILE IM IN THE ROOM BUT IF I LEAVE THE ROOM HELL JUMP ON THE BED AND LIE DOWN. . . HE KEEPS JUMPING ON PPL [people] AND RUNNING TO MY BFS [boyfriend's] SIDE AND HIDING BEHIND HIM WHEN I TELL HIM TO DO SOMETHING LIKE GO TO HIS BED”

The question before us is: What do you do when you have a small dog that acts badly and your friend or family member either won’t help, doesn’t understand, or makes matters worse?

I have my own opinions about this, but I’d love to hear yours. Let’s get a conversation going in the Reply section below and see if we can help the person who made the above comment. (By the way, you do not have to sign in to leave a Reply. Just go for it.)

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Small Dog Buddies

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009
The playground at Kelsey's Dog House. Lima is laying on top of Arlo.

The playground at Kelsey's Dog House. Lima the Pug is laying on top of Arlo.

If you own two small dogs, do they like to hang out with each other? Even if you only have one small dog, does he have a dog buddy in the neighborhood?

Here’s why I ask. We dog behaviorists love to talk about pack theory. We seem to think everything a dog does can be tied back to its origins as a pack animal. And yet, after hanging with small dogs in groups of ten, twenty, thirty, I rarely see dogs from different homes relate to each other except to occasionally pair off to play. Sure, one dog may play with another for awhile, but I almost never see two or more dogs that join up in anything that resembles a lasting relationship.

Necessity or Convenience

Perhaps it’s a question of necessity. Feral dogs almost always gather in packs. The pack gives them strength in numbers, a valuable asset when faced with surviving on the mean streets. The domestic dog who lives the cushy life in a home has no need for a pack.

The Exception

There are exceptions to the rule. In the accompanying photo, Lima the Pug, (The black dog facing the camera with his tongue sticking out,) is laying on top of Arlo, the Tibetan Terrier. I point this out because these two come from separate homes, and never knew each other before they met at Kelsey’s Dog House. During the day, they play almost exclusively with each other. At rest, they always lay next to each other and spoon. When only Arlo is at the shop, he will play with any other dog that is in the mood. Same with Lima. But when they are both staying with us, they are drawn to each other as magnets. Do you know two small dogs with a relationship like Lima and Arlo?

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How to Stop Small Dog Aggression at the Front Door

Thursday, October 29th, 2009
<center>Door guard</center>

Door guard

Halloween is almost here, and you may be worried about how your dog is going to handle all those trick-or-treaters coming to your front door. Here’s how to take charge of the situation well before trouble begins.
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This article quotes Dale Stavroff, in his book Let the Dog Decide. Some of the quoted material has been edited for length.

These steps assume you have already taught your dog to lie down on command.

“Schedule a visit by a friend. Arrange with the friend that he or she will knock or right the bell only once, and then be prepared to wait until you open the door.

“At the appointed time, have the dog at your side with the long line attached to the flat collar, and await your friends ring or knock at a distance away from the door that is greater than the length of the line.

“If the dog charges the door at the sound of the doorbell or knock, stand on the line with your back turned to the dog. Keep your back turned for a moment after the dog comes to the end of the line knocks itself down with the force of its own momentum, to allow the dog time to get back on its feet and see that you and your hands are not responsible for what happened.

“Turn around, call the dog to you, and reassure it with benevolent eye contact, a treat, and a pet.

“If the dog does not charge the door . . . it will almost certainly still be feeling some agitation and concern, so reassure it with benevolent eye contact, a treat, and a pet.” [My note: This approach is very different from Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer's technique of stabbing the dog in the neck with your fingers and saying “Shh!”]

“Walk to the door with the dog and put it in a down [position.]

“Open the door and welcome the visitor into the house while the dog remains in the down. This gives the dog and opportunity to see and sniff the visitor from a little distance and to observe that the two of your are interacting comfortably.”

At this point, you should be watching for your dog to relax in the down position. Once the dog relaxes completely, you can release the dog to investigate your friend more freely. Your friend can give the dog a treat at this point, which should confirm in the dog’s mind that approaching the visitor in a relaxed state is the right thing to do.

You should repeat these steps over the next several days with different visitors, particularly those you dog has never met before. This will help your small dog generalize his behavior in as wide a range of circumstances as possible.

Take Action:

  1. Do the steps listed above.
  2. Repeat the training as often as possible over the next two weeks and you should have a calm, well-behave dog when visitors come calling.

Let us know what you think.

Use the Reply section below this article to tell the rest of the community about your trials and successes with training your small dog not to charge the front door.

Photo courtesy of tobyotter@flickr.com

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78428166@N00/ / CC BY 2.0

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A Small Dog Halloween Horror

Saturday, October 24th, 2009
Trick or treat!

Trick or treat!

“Trick or treat. Give me something good to eat. Don’t hold back and don’t be lazy, or I’ll drive your small dog crazy.”

Halloween is one of my favorite holidays. What’s not to like? You get to dress up in a costume and play another character. It’s an excuse to eat a bunch of junk food. The house decorations are fun. Someone almost always hosts a great party. Your small dog barks his brains out when the doorbell rings every 90 seconds between sundown and around 9:00 p.m.

Okay, maybe you’re not so fond of that last item.

The Horror . . . the Horror!

If your small dog creates his own horror movie by terrorizing trick-or-treaters at your front door, you have two choices:

  1. Put up with the commotion and hope your dog doesn’t try to make a Halloween snack out of a trick-or-treater, or
  2. Arrange it so your dog can relax when . . .
    “. . . suddenly there came a tapping,
    As of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.
    `’Tis some visitor,’ I muttered, `tapping at my chamber door -
    Only this, and nothing more.’” (The Raven, Edgar Allan Poe, 1945)

Frankenstein’s Formula

A dog that charges the front door and barks is extremely anxious about the intruder/threat on the other side. Any attempt to counter the dog’s behavior with voice commands and physical manipulation, such as poking the dog in the neck, will only fuel the dog’s anxiety. You will get much better results by applying the two primary principles of training:

  • Arrange it so the dog’s undesirable behavior fails to serve the dog.
  • Offer a substitute behavior that works for the dog.

I’ll explain how to do these two steps in my next article.

Tricks and Treats

Your other option is simply to place your dog in his crate with a suitable distraction, such as a long-lasting chew stick or toy. Ironically this technique is very similar to the first because you are arranging the situation where:

  1. Charging the front door is going to fail because it is not possible, and
  2. Eating a dog-safe Halloween treat is a great substitute for eating little kids in costumes.

I’ll be back before October 31st with an article explaining the training steps to stop your dog from charging the front door. Happy Halloween.

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Small Dog As Child

Saturday, October 17th, 2009

Yorkie

There is a recurring theme in small dog ownership that keeps rearing its head. I believe it’s at the heart of most of the problems we have with small dogs. The theme is this: we tend to confuse our small dogs with children. Many of us say, “Oh, I know he’s just a dog,” while we secretly believe, in our heart of hearts, that our dog is a child.

Then there are those who just come right out and say it, like the person who came into our shop the other day to pick up her small dog. This un-neutered dog responds to the abundance of testosterone coursing through his veins by peeing on every vertical surface he passes. One of the ladies at our shop, tired and exasperated from continually mopping up after this dog, asked the owner why the dog had not been neutered. The owner’s response: “You wouldn’t do that to your child, would you?”

What’s Wrong?

What’s the problem with this? Am I being petty? I don’t think so, because if you look at the behavior problems of small dog-children, you’ll see the disconnect. While people understand and enjoy dogs as children, dogs really don’t understand the role of a child. Sure, they get the part about hugging and kissing, but they don’t understand the rest of the conversation. It’s gibberish to them.

Lost in Translation

Think of it this way. Imagine yourself all alone in another country where you don’t speak the language and you don’t have a feel for the culture. How would you fair in the first hour after you set foot in that land? You would be pretty disoriented. You would rely on your normal habits. By luck, some of the things you would try would be culturally acceptable, but some things would not. In time, through trial and error, you would probably work it out.

Here’s the deal with small dogs treated as children. They are visitors in a foreign country, except they are continually stuck in that first hour after arrival. They don’t get the language, and never will. They don’t get the culture, and never will. They may eventually figure out some of the customs and habits of this strange world, but they will never fully master their environment.

That is why small dogs, treated as children, seem to run amok. That is why they do things that disappoint or frustrate us. They aren’t trying to be bad. They are just doing what they naturally do because nothing else makes sense.

Change is Hard

The solution is hard—very hard. It requires us to discard the lenses that make us see small dogs as children. It’s a sacrifice that many of us are not ready to make because there are so many benefits to being the parent of a small dog. The benefit is all ours.

Take Action:

Evaluate your relationship with your small dog. See if you are:

  • Explaining your expectations to your dog in sentences.
  • Placing affection ahead of guidance.
  • Reacting emotionally, rather than rationally, to your small dog’s misbehavior.
  • Referring to yourself as your small dog’s mom or dad.

If you are doing at least two of the items on this list, and your small dog is a model citizen, write and tell me I don’t know what I am talking about. If some or all of your dog’s behavior is driving you nuts, it’s time to re-evaluate your view of your small dog.

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A Rescued Dog’s Weird Behavior, Part 4, Building Confidence

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

Confidence 101: Kelsey chasing Canada geese. See the full video on our home page.

Confidence 101: Kelsey chasing Canada geese. See the full video on our home page.

This is the last in a 4-part series about how to cope with and resolve your rescued dog’s weird behavior. By the end of this article, you will know how to build up your dog’s confidence. It should be a lot of fun for the both of you.
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In the last two articles, we talked about the value of ignoring weird behavior and encouraging good behavior as a substitute. Now we are at the point where you will help your dog build confidence. An unstressed, worry-free dog has no reason to engage in coping behavior

Confidence Is

When I use the word confident, I am talking about a dog that focuses on doing what a dog does naturally without worrying about negative reactions from people. I don’t mean a confident dog is one that pees all over your house without worry. I mean, your dog can go outside, have fun, and not expect to be punished for being himself.

Shyness

Many, but certainly not all, rescued dogs are extremely shy. This shyness comes from not knowing where a dog fits in among people. Many rescued dogs are abused or abandoned for reasons that are not apparent to the dog. When a dog can’t make sense of why its being punished, the dog shuts down emotionally. Behaviorists call this “Whipped Dog Syndrome.” Some rescued dogs end up in rescue situations because they are naturally shy. I know it may seem ridiculous to you, but some people reject dogs that do not live up their expectations of a lively pet.

Other rescued dogs display a lack of confidence by behaving aggressively. It seems counter-intuitive. A dog lacking confidence can hold the world at bay by threatening anything and anyone that gets too close. Dogs displaying this type of behavior are known as “sharp shy.”

The Treatment

Luckily for us, the treatment for shy and sharp shy dogs is the same: build confidence. Here’s how to do it.

First, identify activities that your dog enjoys. The only way to do this is to expose your dog to a wide variety of situations and monitor his behavior. The “go” sign is alertness without fear:

One of the best ways to introduce your dog to a new activity is to lead him on a loose leash. If he pulls ahead, he wants to give it a try. If he lags behind, he’s not sure. If he stalls or turns the opposite direction, it’s a no-go for now. If your dog hesitates, you don’t need to retreat immediately, but you should not force him into the activity. Give him time to decide.

Expect–Nothing

Now is as good a time as any to talk about your expectations. Get rid of them. I mean, don’t force your dog to do anything just because you believe its good for him. For example, just because you believe your water dog should dive into the lake for a swim the first time he sees the water does not mean your water dog is ready to swim right now. Maybe he just wants to stretch out on the shore and enjoy the sun. A shy dog needs time and breathing room to explore new activities. When he’s ready to go, he’ll tell you; and he may never be ready. That’s okay, because the last thing your shy dog needs is to be forced into another situation that makes him uncomfortable. He’s already been there and done that.

On the flip side, don’t worry and fret your dog might not enjoy an activity. Go in with an open mind and give your dog a chance to adjust. If the activity is his cup of tea, he’ll come around in time. Let him go at his own pace.

And please don’t become the classic soccer mom or soccer dad, shuttling your dog around to five special events a day to “stimulate his growth.” His job, and your job, is to adjust to a normal family lifestyle, not to transform him into a canine wonder dog.

Places to Be. Things to Try.

Here is a short list of activities that many dogs find enjoyable. (Notice how simple these are:)

  • Walking through the neighborhood.
  • Hiking in the woods.
  • Walking on the beach.
  • Jogging with you.
  • Playing fetch.
  • Getting tickled.
  • Playing hide and seek with a bone, a toy, or with you.
  • Chasing rabbits or birds in an open field.
  • Jumping in and out of the water at the beach.
  • Swimming.

Find what works for your dog and let him dive in when he’s ready. Over time, nature will take its course. Your dog’s confidence will build and displace his worries. Weird coping behavior will diminish because it will no longer be necessary.

Take Action:
  1. Start exploring simple and enjoyable activities with your dog.
  2. Note what your dog enjoys and what your dog avoids. Emphasize enjoyment and forget about the rest.
  3. Watch your dog blossom as he builds confidence.

Tell Us What You Think:
What kinds of activities does your dog enjoy?
Do you have a story about a rescued dog that improved as he explored and began to enjoy life?
Share your story with the rest of our community. We’d love to hear from you.

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A Rescued Dog’s Threatening Behavior

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

A Maltese-Poodle mix (Maltipoo). This is not the dog referenced in this article.

A Maltese-Poodle mix (Maltipoo). This is not the dog referenced in this article.

In response to my third article about coping with a rescued dog’s weird behavior, a reader sent in a good question. (The original, unedited comment can be found at the bottom of an article at this link.) Her question and my response follow:

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We have had a rescued maltipoo for about three months. He has his emotional ups and downs – is almost always good with me.

Is jealous of my husband’s affection toward our shepard mix 10 year old dog. Started out being my husband’s dog – and then started snapping at him for no reason. Now he is “my dog” but is either hyperactive one day and then very quiet another day. He evidently was fed table scraps (vet says he’s 1-2 years old and he was not neutered when we got him – matted coat – running at night on a freeway in Phoenix) because feeding him is a problem.

What can my husband do to stop the dog from snapping at him – the dog seems to like my husband, but if dog is sleeping on bed or not facing him will whirl around, snapping, growling and getting in my husband’s face. Any help you can give will be appreciated. He has been vet checked, neutered, shots, etc and was found to be in good health.


My Response

Dear Dee:

First of all. Thank you so much for posting your comment to my website. Here are my thoughts:

Here is one thing we can immediately deduce, your dog does not like to be surprised. This is not unusual for a rescued dog, especially one that has spent time on the street. While on the street, a dog learns to be defensive as a means of survival. When a street dog feels threatened, it has two choices: fight or flee. Usually, when the threat is detected early and still far from the dog, the dog will choose to flee. If the dog is taken by surprise and the threat is too close to run from, the dog may choose to fight. Before fighting, a dog will try to warn the intruder. This is what your dog is doing with your husband.

Taken by Surprise

You said your dog reacts with threatening behavior whenever he is awakened by your husband, or when your husband approaches him from his blind spot to the rear. Essentially, your husband is surprising your dog, which makes your street-wise maltipoo feel threatened. If your dog snaps from his bed when he’s not actually sleeping, then he is simply defending his bed–his territory–when your husband gets too close. That’s one part of the puzzle.

Why Only with the Husband?

The second part of the puzzle is why your dog only feels surprised and threatened by your husband. Your husband’s relationship with your 10-year old shepard mix may be part of the reason. I feel there must be some connection to how your husband behaves around your maltipoo that makes some difference too. I cannot venture a opinion without seeing the interaction between your dog and your husband. However, there are some first steps your husband can take that may help.

  1. Be aware of your rescued dog’s street-wise habits and obviously, don’t intentionally do anything to shock or surprise him.

  2. When the dog threatens your husband, he should not react at all, (as long as the dog goes no further than the warning behavior you described.) By not reacting, I mean he should not look at the dog, touch the dog, or even speak to the dog. Realize yelling or even talking to a dog on emotional fire only pours fuel on the flame. Completely ignore the bad reaction and the dog as though he is not there.
  3. When the dog is calm, I’d recommend that your husband take him for a walk, and do this as often as possible. One 30-45 minute walk per day is good. Two 30-minute or more walks is better. Here’s the key. When your husband walks your dog, he should be alone with the dog. Don’t bring the shepard mix. You can join your husband, but I’d recommend walking on the side of your husband, opposite the dog so you are not part of the interaction between husband and dog. When your husband walks your dog, he should insist that the dog walks alongside or slightly behind, never out in front. The idea is, your husband leads the dog, not the other way around. The strategy is two-fold. First, long walks together will help build a bond of trust between them. Second, when your husband leads your dog on a walk, the dog will learn to accept your husband as a leader. Dogs are wired to not threaten or challenge a confident and able leader.


More on Walking Your Dog

There’s a right way and wrong way to lead a dog on a walk. It should always be done calmly and with confidence. I’m not a big fan of using a choke collar to get a dog to heel. A choke collar, despite what others might say, inflicts a moment of discomfort on the dog when the leash is yanked. The last thing your husband needs right now is to strengthen the link between himself and the dog’s feelings of discomfort. If your maltipoo does not already know how to heel, I strongly recommend using a Haltie harness for training, which is available at most pet stores. The Haltie harness prevents your dog from pulling on a leash by re-directing his head position, just as a halter steers a horse. There are also a lot of good books on the shelf about how to teach your dog to heel. I especially like Let the Dog Decide: The Revolutionary 15-Minute-a-Day Program to Train Your Dog – Gently and Reliably“ by Dale Stavroff. It’s available and inexpensive at Amazon.com.

Conclusion

If your dog resorts to biting, or if you feel what I’ve recommended is beyond your capability, then I’d suggest getting a local dog trainer/behaviorist involved. With the right strategy, and with time and patience, your rescued dog will settle in.

Have Any Additional Thoughts?

Please add them to the comments section below.

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A Rescue Dog’s Weird Behavior, Part 3, Substitute Good for Bad

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

<center>Hiding under the bed<p><small><em>(photo courtesy of lucianvenutian@flickr.com*)</em></small></p></center>

Hiding under the bed

(photo courtesy of lucianvenutian@flickr.com*)

By the end of this series of articles, you are going to know how to cope with and change the weird behavior of your rescued small dog. In today’s article, I am going to show you how to replace your rescued dog’s weird behavior with behavior you can live with.

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Here is a very important concept to hang onto:

Dogs want to be shown the way.

Let me say that again:

Dogs want to be shown the way.

I don’t care how stubborn your dog seems to be, he wants to know what’s expected of him. If your dog was able to understand and appreciate going to the movies, mystery movies would not be at the top of his list. Dogs want, and need to know, what is going to happen next.

Why is this Important?

Rescued dogs, (before they are rescued,) usually live unpredictable, and therefore miserable dog lives. Here are some of the circumstances that make their lives miserable:

  • Abandonment leaves them fending for themselves in an unpredictable world.
  • Isolation leaves them wondering when and where the next interaction with people or other animals might happen.
  • Physical abuse is random pain and chaos that makes absolutely no sense to a dog.

It’s no wonder your rescued dog exhibits weird behaviors. He’s doing everything he can to cope with the uncertainty in his life. You may say yes, but he’s with me now. He’s okay. Nothing can harm him.

He doesn’t know that. All he has known up until this point is that life has sucked. His transfer to your home is just another step in a series of unpredictable occurrences. If you really want him to understand his life has changed for the better, your job is to give him something positive and predictable to do.

What to Dog Right Now

Here’s how to do it. First, as I said in part 2 of this series, ignore the weird behavior your dog puts out, as long as the behavior is not harmful. Weird behavior may not make sense to you, but it does help your dog cope with stress. Second, give your dog positive and rewarding tasks that pull him away from his weird behavior. Third, do those positive things the same way every day.

Here are some examples of positive tasks:

  • Taking a walk with you.
  • Learning obedience behavior.
  • Playing fetch either as play or as a household service, e.g. fetch your shoes, etc.
  • Joining you outside to get the mail or the newspaper.
  • Playing tug-o-war with you.

Notice all of the examples involve movement, with no idle time. Your dog will most likely engage in his coping behaviors when he has nothing else to do. Some activities, while pleasant, don’t really give your dog anything to do. For example, while riding with you in the car around town may seem like a pleasant task, your dog will likely spend most of the time laying down or staring out of the window. It doesn’t demand much from your dog.

Don’t Run Yourself Ragged

I’m not saying you have to run yourself ragged all day just to keep your dog actively engaged. What I am saying is, when you notice your dog lapsing into coping behavior, give him something else to do that you both enjoy.

Be Consistent

When you do give your dog a task, try to do it the same way everyday. Set up patterns and rituals for your dog that he was so sorely missing in his previous life. If you stay consistent and positive in your approach to giving your dog tasks, you will notice, over time, your dog spends less and less energy on weird behavior, and more time relaxing during his idle time. Why? Because you have shown him the way: a time, place, and method for doing tasks that he can count on. Mystery solved!

Take Action:
  1. Come up with a list of 8-10 positive activities for your dog and write them down in your journal.
  2. If an activity requires training, read up on how to train your dog to do that activity. You will find some resources right here at www.asmalldog.com. I also recommend reading and following Let the Dog Decide, a great training book for shy dogs, by Dale Stavroff.
  3. When you notice your dog beginning a (weird) coping behavior, engage him in one of the activities you had written in your journal.


Let Us Know What You Think:

Tell our community of small dog lovers some of the activities you like to do with your small dog. If nothing else, write something, anything, in the comment section below just to let me know you are alive and thinking about what you’ve just read.

*The opinions expressed in this article are my own and not necessarily those of the provider of the attached photo. I make no claim that the dog in the attached photo is a rescued dog, nor that it has any behavior problems.

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Territoriality: One Key to Small Dog Syndrome

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009
This spot is mine! Keep out!

This spot is mine! Keep out!

Awhile back I wrote a piece called “Small Dog Syndrome.” That article has drawn more attention from people seeking help with their small dog than anything else I have written. It bothers me that so many people are having problems controlling the behavior of their small dogs. It also bothers me to think that many people believe their dog is possessed, for lack of a better word, by a force that is beyond their control. Small Dog Syndrome is not a malignant growth or deformation of your small dog’s brain. It is not a force of nature, nor an unlucky combination of inherited genes. It is not part and parcel of a specific breed. It is not a trait, not a personality quirk, not a special ability, nor is it an inability. Your dog does not hold his own internal dialogue with himself in which he says, “Hey, let’s really piss off the human today.” Small Dog Syndrome is not even a syndrome. It is a shame the phrase has found its way into our vocabulary because it probably causes some of us to throw up our hands and say “My small dog has Small Dog Syndrome. He’s damaged goods and he will never get better.” (more…)

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Stop Your Small Dog’s Barking

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009

“Insanity: Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.”
-Albert Einstein-

“Woof.”

Woof.

Woof.

“Quiet.”

“Woof.”

“I said quiet.”

“Woof.”

“Be Quiet!”

“Woof.”

“Shh. Quiet!!”

Woof.”

“QUIET!!!!”

“Woof.”

If your small dog is as vocal as my dog Royce, you have probably gotten into a shouting symphony with him. I chose those words, “shouting symphony,” very carefully. Let’s break that second word down: “Sym,” meaning together; and “phony,” meaning sound. Yes, you are making sound together. The dog does not necessarily hear a command to be quiet. He hears you barking along with him. The more you shout “Quiet!” or “Stop that!” the more you may actually encourage your dog to bark. (more…)

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