Posts Tagged ‘aggressive behavior’

How to Stop Small Dog Aggression at the Front Door

Thursday, October 29th, 2009
<center>Door guard</center>

Door guard

Halloween is almost here, and you may be worried about how your dog is going to handle all those trick-or-treaters coming to your front door. Here’s how to take charge of the situation well before trouble begins.
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This article quotes Dale Stavroff, in his book Let the Dog Decide. Some of the quoted material has been edited for length.

These steps assume you have already taught your dog to lie down on command.

“Schedule a visit by a friend. Arrange with the friend that he or she will knock or right the bell only once, and then be prepared to wait until you open the door.

“At the appointed time, have the dog at your side with the long line attached to the flat collar, and await your friends ring or knock at a distance away from the door that is greater than the length of the line.

“If the dog charges the door at the sound of the doorbell or knock, stand on the line with your back turned to the dog. Keep your back turned for a moment after the dog comes to the end of the line knocks itself down with the force of its own momentum, to allow the dog time to get back on its feet and see that you and your hands are not responsible for what happened.

“Turn around, call the dog to you, and reassure it with benevolent eye contact, a treat, and a pet.

“If the dog does not charge the door . . . it will almost certainly still be feeling some agitation and concern, so reassure it with benevolent eye contact, a treat, and a pet.” [My note: This approach is very different from Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer's technique of stabbing the dog in the neck with your fingers and saying “Shh!”]

“Walk to the door with the dog and put it in a down [position.]

“Open the door and welcome the visitor into the house while the dog remains in the down. This gives the dog and opportunity to see and sniff the visitor from a little distance and to observe that the two of your are interacting comfortably.”

At this point, you should be watching for your dog to relax in the down position. Once the dog relaxes completely, you can release the dog to investigate your friend more freely. Your friend can give the dog a treat at this point, which should confirm in the dog’s mind that approaching the visitor in a relaxed state is the right thing to do.

You should repeat these steps over the next several days with different visitors, particularly those you dog has never met before. This will help your small dog generalize his behavior in as wide a range of circumstances as possible.

Take Action:

  1. Do the steps listed above.
  2. Repeat the training as often as possible over the next two weeks and you should have a calm, well-behave dog when visitors come calling.

Let us know what you think.

Use the Reply section below this article to tell the rest of the community about your trials and successes with training your small dog not to charge the front door.

Photo courtesy of tobyotter@flickr.com

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78428166@N00/ / CC BY 2.0

A Small Dog Halloween Horror

Saturday, October 24th, 2009
Trick or treat!

Trick or treat!

“Trick or treat. Give me something good to eat. Don’t hold back and don’t be lazy, or I’ll drive your small dog crazy.”

Halloween is one of my favorite holidays. What’s not to like? You get to dress up in a costume and play another character. It’s an excuse to eat a bunch of junk food. The house decorations are fun. Someone almost always hosts a great party. Your small dog barks his brains out when the doorbell rings every 90 seconds between sundown and around 9:00 p.m.

Okay, maybe you’re not so fond of that last item.

The Horror . . . the Horror!

If your small dog creates his own horror movie by terrorizing trick-or-treaters at your front door, you have two choices:

  1. Put up with the commotion and hope your dog doesn’t try to make a Halloween snack out of a trick-or-treater, or
  2. Arrange it so your dog can relax when . . .
    “. . . suddenly there came a tapping,
    As of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.
    `’Tis some visitor,’ I muttered, `tapping at my chamber door -
    Only this, and nothing more.’” (The Raven, Edgar Allan Poe, 1945)

Frankenstein’s Formula

A dog that charges the front door and barks is extremely anxious about the intruder/threat on the other side. Any attempt to counter the dog’s behavior with voice commands and physical manipulation, such as poking the dog in the neck, will only fuel the dog’s anxiety. You will get much better results by applying the two primary principles of training:

  • Arrange it so the dog’s undesirable behavior fails to serve the dog.
  • Offer a substitute behavior that works for the dog.

I’ll explain how to do these two steps in my next article.

Tricks and Treats

Your other option is simply to place your dog in his crate with a suitable distraction, such as a long-lasting chew stick or toy. Ironically this technique is very similar to the first because you are arranging the situation where:

  1. Charging the front door is going to fail because it is not possible, and
  2. Eating a dog-safe Halloween treat is a great substitute for eating little kids in costumes.

I’ll be back before October 31st with an article explaining the training steps to stop your dog from charging the front door. Happy Halloween.

A Rescued Dog’s Threatening Behavior

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

A Maltese-Poodle mix (Maltipoo). This is not the dog referenced in this article.

A Maltese-Poodle mix (Maltipoo). This is not the dog referenced in this article.

In response to my third article about coping with a rescued dog’s weird behavior, a reader sent in a good question. (The original, unedited comment can be found at the bottom of an article at this link.) Her question and my response follow:

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We have had a rescued maltipoo for about three months. He has his emotional ups and downs – is almost always good with me.

Is jealous of my husband’s affection toward our shepard mix 10 year old dog. Started out being my husband’s dog – and then started snapping at him for no reason. Now he is “my dog” but is either hyperactive one day and then very quiet another day. He evidently was fed table scraps (vet says he’s 1-2 years old and he was not neutered when we got him – matted coat – running at night on a freeway in Phoenix) because feeding him is a problem.

What can my husband do to stop the dog from snapping at him – the dog seems to like my husband, but if dog is sleeping on bed or not facing him will whirl around, snapping, growling and getting in my husband’s face. Any help you can give will be appreciated. He has been vet checked, neutered, shots, etc and was found to be in good health.


My Response

Dear Dee:

First of all. Thank you so much for posting your comment to my website. Here are my thoughts:

Here is one thing we can immediately deduce, your dog does not like to be surprised. This is not unusual for a rescued dog, especially one that has spent time on the street. While on the street, a dog learns to be defensive as a means of survival. When a street dog feels threatened, it has two choices: fight or flee. Usually, when the threat is detected early and still far from the dog, the dog will choose to flee. If the dog is taken by surprise and the threat is too close to run from, the dog may choose to fight. Before fighting, a dog will try to warn the intruder. This is what your dog is doing with your husband.

Taken by Surprise

You said your dog reacts with threatening behavior whenever he is awakened by your husband, or when your husband approaches him from his blind spot to the rear. Essentially, your husband is surprising your dog, which makes your street-wise maltipoo feel threatened. If your dog snaps from his bed when he’s not actually sleeping, then he is simply defending his bed–his territory–when your husband gets too close. That’s one part of the puzzle.

Why Only with the Husband?

The second part of the puzzle is why your dog only feels surprised and threatened by your husband. Your husband’s relationship with your 10-year old shepard mix may be part of the reason. I feel there must be some connection to how your husband behaves around your maltipoo that makes some difference too. I cannot venture a opinion without seeing the interaction between your dog and your husband. However, there are some first steps your husband can take that may help.

  1. Be aware of your rescued dog’s street-wise habits and obviously, don’t intentionally do anything to shock or surprise him.
  2. When the dog threatens your husband, he should not react at all, (as long as the dog goes no further than the warning behavior you described.) By not reacting, I mean he should not look at the dog, touch the dog, or even speak to the dog. Realize yelling or even talking to a dog on emotional fire only pours fuel on the flame. Completely ignore the bad reaction and the dog as though he is not there.
  3. When the dog is calm, I’d recommend that your husband take him for a walk, and do this as often as possible. One 30-45 minute walk per day is good. Two 30-minute or more walks is better. Here’s the key. When your husband walks your dog, he should be alone with the dog. Don’t bring the shepard mix. You can join your husband, but I’d recommend walking on the side of your husband, opposite the dog so you are not part of the interaction between husband and dog. When your husband walks your dog, he should insist that the dog walks alongside or slightly behind, never out in front. The idea is, your husband leads the dog, not the other way around. The strategy is two-fold. First, long walks together will help build a bond of trust between them. Second, when your husband leads your dog on a walk, the dog will learn to accept your husband as a leader. Dogs are wired to not threaten or challenge a confident and able leader.


More on Walking Your Dog

There’s a right way and wrong way to lead a dog on a walk. It should always be done calmly and with confidence. I’m not a big fan of using a choke collar to get a dog to heel. A choke collar, despite what others might say, inflicts a moment of discomfort on the dog when the leash is yanked. The last thing your husband needs right now is to strengthen the link between himself and the dog’s feelings of discomfort. If your maltipoo does not already know how to heel, I strongly recommend using a Haltie harness for training, which is available at most pet stores. The Haltie harness prevents your dog from pulling on a leash by re-directing his head position, just as a halter steers a horse. There are also a lot of good books on the shelf about how to teach your dog to heel. I especially like Let the Dog Decide: The Revolutionary 15-Minute-a-Day Program to Train Your Dog – Gently and Reliably“ by Dale Stavroff. It’s available and inexpensive at Amazon.com.

Conclusion

If your dog resorts to biting, or if you feel what I’ve recommended is beyond your capability, then I’d suggest getting a local dog trainer/behaviorist involved. With the right strategy, and with time and patience, your rescued dog will settle in.

Have Any Additional Thoughts?

Please add them to the comments section below.

Now I Lay Me Down . . .

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

Kelsey. Down. Good girl!

Kelsey. Down. Good girl!

. . . to sleep; to avoid getting hit by a car; to stop running away; to avoid a confrontation with another dog; to settle in for a wait; to be petted by a child; or, to focus attention on something important. These are a few of the reasons why teaching your dog to lie down on command is the most important obedience work you can do with your dog. (more…)