Holding Hands with Your Dog

Posted on Nov 15 in Small Dog Groomingby Jeff K.Print

Roofi seemed like such a nice dog. He was quiet and well-behaved when he arrived for his grooming appointment. As he waited for his turn on the grooming table, he mixed well with the other dogs in our open play area. He stood calmly in the bathtub while the groomer washed him. When the groomer trimmed his coat, Roofi was as statuesque as a show dog. Then it was time to trim his nails.

Suddenly, Roofi transformed into a hellhound. He thrashed and gyrated to a devilish rhythm we could not hear. He snapped at the nail clippers. He growled and shook as though he were in the opening stages of a seizure. Ultimately, it took three people to trim Roofi’s nails. One to hold Roofi’s body, one to hold Roofi’s legs, and one to do the clipping. In hindsight, it would have been better for Roofi and for our team if a veterinarian had clipped his nails with the dog under anesthesia.

Believe it our not, this scene happens quite often at grooming shops. While most dogs resist nailing trimming to some degree, there are some who would rather fight to the death than submit to a nail trimming. We have found that a power nail grinder creates much less anxiety for a dog than the dreaded nail clipper. Though the grinder makes a lot of noise and vibration, dog’s seem to prefer the constant and predictable noise to the sudden snap of a nail clipper. There is a reason for this.

If your dog has previously had his nails cut carelessly, he may have learned to fear the sight and sound of nail clippers. When I say carelessly, I mean the person who used nail clippers may have cut into the quick of your dog’s nails. The quick is the living core inside of your dog’s nails. It is fed by blood capillaries and is netted with nerve endings. If a nail clipper accidentally cuts into the quick, it hurts. The pain comes immediately after the loud snap the clipper makes when it cuts. Instantly, the dog associates pain with that snapping noise. I know this to be true, because I have had the good fortune of performing the first grooming on puppies that have never been injured by a clipper and therefore have nothing to fear. Of course, I am very careful when clipping, so the problem will not begin with me.

Some dogs, though never injured by clippers, seem to be sensitive to having their paws touched, particularly the front paws. I believe this is because the front paws are more likely to be stepped on by people. If you have ever stepped on your own dog’s front paw, you were probably alerted by a blood-curdling scream, well out of proportion to the pain caused by your misstep. In fact, some dogs are so sensitive to paw contact, they will scream if you even nudge one of their paws with your foot.

Some dog groomers will tell you can help the situation by manipulating your dogs paws at home. This answer is partly correct. If you suddenly grab your dog’s paw under any circumstances, your dog is going to pull away and that will be the end of the experiment. Here is the better solution for dogs that are highly sensitive to having their paws touched. When your dog is lying next to you, while you are watching T.V. together, for example, quietly and gently massage one of her shoulders. Gradually move your massaging hand down to her upper leg and continue the massage. Then stop. The following day, repeat this procedure, but work your way down the leg until your are massaging or stroking your dog at the elbow. You are working on a de-sensitization project, and like any such program, you have to work slowly toward the most sensitive area. If your dog tolerates this well, at the next session, work your massaging or stroking hand down to your dog’s forearm. At the next session, try to work your way down to the paw. When you finally do make contact with the paw, use light and gentle strokes. Certainly do not grab or massage the paws immediately. Build up the degree of contact over time. If at any time, your dog resists your touch, reverse course up to the point where your dog is relaxed and not resistant. Eventually, your should be able to work your way down the paw; and handle your dog’s paws without any resistance. This de-sensitization project should continue every day at first, and then occasionally for the rest of your dog’s life to keep your dog de-sensitized. This exercise is not just for the benefit of your groomer. It will make your dog’s visit to the groomer much less stressful.

It also helps if the groomer is forewarned about your dog’s sensitivities. The groomer will begin the nail trim by trying to relax the dog first. He or she will also try to distract your dog during the nail trim using a team approach. The groomer will do the trimming as quickly as possible while an assistant distracts your dog with a combination of gentle talk, petting, and visual distractions.

The alternative to these methods is an expensive procedure involving anesthesia at the veterinarian’s office every time your dog’s nails need a trim.

Afterword: We have had dog owners give their fearful dogs mild tranquilizers before their appointment. I have not seen a case where the tranquilizers made any difference at all. The best approach is to de-sensitize your dog to paw handling; and, inform your groomer of the problem so he or she can adjust her approach to nail clipping.

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One Comment

• Jaye says:

  March 19, 2010 at 12:46 am

  My shish tzu was a recuse at age 8 months. He was a bitter and very difficult to groom. Today, he has stopped bitting except when he is groomed. The groomer insists on sedation every time he is groomed. Last week, she said the sedation did not work and the vet will need to use something stronger. Do you have any suggestions as to how to help him overcome this bitting? Do you know of a groomer in Atlanta that can work with him to easy his anxiety?

  Thank you

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